Sailing Trip Round Ireland, Stop 2: Greystones

Jonathan McGuinness
9 min readMay 18, 2023

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Arrival into Greystones

As we arrived in the marina of Greystones at midday 1200 DST, I was the man on home turf so I knew the man at Marine Reception, or at least the guy who normally does it. So I wanted to at least attempt to make this a haven we would remember with pleasure.

Wading into a berth in Greystones Marina!

We were going to pull into a berth on the visitor’s pontoon and sort ourselves quite simply, that was the hope after our long track from Rathlin. We were looking forward to showers and the heated floors of the showers that I had a alluded to…

The weather was gorgeous with the sun shining on us, and we were eager to relieve ourselves from our heavier sailing clothing and let our feet out of our socks and boots!

The satisfaction of completing the top half to the Irish Sea!
Jut inside the Greystones Harbour Walls

We de-robed and I delightfully went barefoot on the pontoon. The skipper went up to get our berth allocation so we were given another berth, so a little delay to get settled.

When we were just ready to get off the boat completely, another boat came in and we were in their spot. Oops! I ran barefoot up to the reception to see what we was happening, and there was simply a mistake by a summer receptionist and berth number 3 would let us settle!

Whew! We found our place for a rest and recovery! YES!

We were starting to won the boat, tidy Lynx Clipperbefore going onshore to debrief, clean up and enjoy ourselves!

Cian kept us in suspense, we had completed Leg 2 and we were going to battle the Carnsore Point Tidal Gate next so he was working out our best timing for that approach down the Southeast Coast of Ireland. It sounded we would be given a full days reprieve to stay until sometime in the night and head off, so we got set for settling in for the day.

Frank, the Master Victualler was going to restock our vitals. I agreed to find and organise us a nice place to eat for dinner, and Tim graciously accompanied me up in to the very pretty village of Greystones.

It happened that on the way to the village was one of favourite coffee shops, the Fat Fox!

The Fat Fox, Greystones, for a nice cappuccino and fantastic cakes!

Tim and I took advantage of our trip to really indulge in a pleasure, a luxury, the cakes of the Fat Fox. I could tell you what was in the cake but I can still feel its taste in my mouth as I think back to those moments outside at a table while packing away that scrumptious cake. We had hit the jackpot of pleasure.

Back on course, we headed for the village to book a place to eat for later. The Tapas Restaurant was on my mind as I really like Spanish food, but there was also a request from a person onboard, will not name names, that we could have a pint of Black while eating. I inquired and San Miguel, as much as I like it, did not match the one request I received from the boat.

So to mull over our decision, Tim and I tested the San Miguel sitting outside in the sun. We had a few things to get, as when you are not really prepared for a trip because you have not done it before, you realise you would like some additional things. The things on the list were:

  • a power bank (me), which I wasn’t able to get on the weekend
  • a towel

and of course, once you go ‘shopping’ you start seeing things you might want.

A little shopping done and I nice fresh pint of San Miguel, or two it is hard to remember :) , in the sun later. We reached a compromise. We would book the Tapas Restaurant for 1500 DST and go for a Pint of Black somewhere later.

Clean-up and rest

Back to the boat we went, to clean ourselves up and ready to get to know each other a bit better over a nice meal and a couple of scoops. And as you do, we began socialising a little with the nearby boats. I noticed a man I knew on one of the boats. One of the guys started talking to our neighbours, two ladies, enjoying the sunshine with a nice glass of wine on thier deck. And of course, the conversation of where the best Pint be located in the village. A point often contested not just by quality but also my loyalty to the relationship with the publican.

Meeting a Professional Sailor

While chatting with Paul, the Navigator, discussing some of the learning points we had from the previous night, we could see this very classy / fast boat parked on the inside of the hammerhead.

The Boat of Tom Dolan, Professional Sailor, making an attempt at the single handed record for around Ireland!

Paul knew that this boat was belonging to a professional that happened to about to attempt a sailing record around Ireland single handed. It looked like a rocket with these strange side foils that clearly make it go even faster. We were talking about the 2 girls who did a similar record.

“There is an existing record for the Beneteau Figaro 3 , sailed two-handed , which was set by Pamela Lee and Cat Hunt in 2021 at three days and 19 hours”

And at the time, what a Figaro was, I wasn’t clear on.

It just felt like funny timing, the week that we were going round Ireland that there was going to be a record attempt. Paul was aware that Tom Dolan, the Professional Sailor, was waiting on the best weather conditions to make the attempt.

As we were up chatting on the boat, I noticed what looked like a familiar figure half way down the Pontoon. It looked very like Peter Lawless, who I had made a podcast with on his attempt to make a solo circumnavigation of the globe unassisted the year before.

Peter Lawless and Waxwing!

So off I popped, and tottered down the pontoon to say ‘Hello’ assuming that it was Peter on Waxwing, his 41 foot sidekick! It turned out not to be Peter but someone who looked very similar so I continued on down the pontoon at the end of which was Tom Dolan’s boat! And ‘hey ho’ he was onboard.

He said ‘hello’ as I walked along the pontoon and we began to chat. I told him about our Round Ireland trip and that I had heard what he was attempting to do! He graciously invited me onboard to have a look at his boat inside and out.

I popped my head inside and it was really barebones, only what he needed for the race. No real comfort at all. This boat was made for racing, full stop!

Tom mentioned that he was deciding based on weather for a good start or a good finish to complete the attempt. And little did I know, and even now, little do I know about the complexities of choosing a weather window for a week for a record attempt! It was an honour to meet Tom, and I followed him on social media while intending to track his progress for his upcoming attempt.

Time to drink, eat, and be merry!

So with some others, we ventured for a pint of Black to whet our appetite at the Beach House. A frequent watering hole for those who have just traversed the Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk which I have done many a time, walking, running, alone, in company, day and at night with the light of the moon. It is an 8 km beautiful view of the sea and Wicklow for those might venture this direction.

And a pint that satiates after such a walk or run, might be the type of pint that might satisfy a few sailors who had just ventured from Rathlin Island overnight to taste the hospitality of Greystones. And YES it was!

We waited for the remainder of the crew to venture pass us on route to the Tapas Restaurant, and that seemed be taking a while but we didn’t struggle about it!

Eventually, we made way for the restaurant co-ordinating via our WhatsApp Group. San Miguel was going to do the trick as we ordered a huge variety of Tapas to share among us.

The pleasures of sitting down and recounting the stories of the night before which we thoroughly enjoyed with nice light westerly winds on the beam of our Code Zero all the way down the Irish Sea! We had gotten to see Dublin from a very different perspective coming down outside the Kish Lighthouse in very pleasant weather sitting on the high-side of the boat looking at the coast and the world that people were living as we floated by.

We had passed through the Rathlin Island Tidal Gate where the waters speed up significantly midway up a rising tide and midway down a falling tide and you really want to let Mother Nature be in your favour whenever possible when out at sea!

The comradery had already started with Frank initiating it, preparing so much food for us before the trip had even begun. It was amplifying at the table as we were sharing and conversing more and more in a way that it seemed like we knew each other far more than the mere 48 to 72 hours that had passed by on the clock of time!

A Pint of the Good Stuff

Next we had a debate on where to venture for a drink before back to sleep and rest before the next day ahead of us, including the upcoming Tidal Gate of Carnsore Point. Where would we go for a pint? Follow the advice of the Ladies of Leisure on our neighbouring boat or my suggestion backed by years of post walk / run satisfaction. Guy, Tim and myself headed vai the Beach to check it out and the others chose the most straight-forward path.

The Coastal View at Greystones

We opted for the Beach House as a full crew. Luckily, we found a table at the back of the house outside and our speculation began for what was ahead and the satisfaction for what we had learned.

A Great Chat and a Satisfying Pint.

Our chat was very enjoyable and as time passed the sensation of hunger re-entered our consciousness, or many it was simply the munchies? The idea to head up the town again.

As we walked up the town, someone had spotted a ‘nice’ Pizza place, so a jolly crew headed for pizza. A very friendly Italian guy was making pizza with a proper over beside a pub called Sonny’s and somehow our Victualler arranged for us to be able to order Pizza’s and allow us to bring them into the pub beside. Now that is really working together!

A stop for 14 hours in the beautiful village of Greystones!

Getting Ready for Night watch for Tidal Gate Number 2: Carnsore Point

A beautiful day, the crew becoming a team and ready for a another set of night watches ahead of us. The concerns of the weather, our capabilities and the adventure ahead were beginning to subside.

0200 DST was departure time, and there was a different feeling as we were heading out together this time!

Next: Sailing Trip Round Ireland, Leg 3: Greystones -> Kilmore Quay

Previous: Sailing Trip Round Ireland, Leg 2: Rathlin Island -> Greystones

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Jonathan McGuinness
Jonathan McGuinness

Written by Jonathan McGuinness

Honesty comes first! Then the possibility to keep your word! How Strong is Your Word? How can we create our strength? #questionsoffire #yourwordpartners

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